Central American Bike Tour is Officially...COMPLETE!

An opportunity to top off our Central American bike tour (the biking portion) with a real cherry had

presented itself when we met Javier, the cyclist from Cerro Punta (before New Years). He told us of a group ride that he was going to participate in from David to Las Lajas and back (a century ride - 100 mi.) along the Pan-American highway. Our travel plans were again altered in order to join what we anticipated to be one of the highlights of our time in Panama. We were not disappointed. We traded in our over abundance of panniers and clutter for the company of the "Mountain Kings" bike team, 12 bikers from Cerro Punta and Volcan, including Craig, the cyclist who hosted us over New Years and Javier, whom we had met in Cerro Punta on his tractor.

There was no official group start to the paseo, but by 7:30 in the morning, David was already in our dust. We started a little later than most of the other cyclists, so the guys set a strong pace to begin with to catch up. Most of the Mountain Kings were mountian bikers and even though most of them were on mountain bikes with knobby tires, they set a pace of about 35 km/hr, that's a fast pace to keep up for a long time. So fast that after about 45 minutes Leah and I decided fall back and not try to keep up anymore. At first I thought we were going to finish the ride all alone, which made me a little disappointed, but we kept riding and soon Craig and a couple others dropped back to ride with us, which we really appreciated. Riding with the guys was a delight as they were really nice and riding in a group on the highway felt much safer than just Leah and I. Not a whole lot about the scenery along the ride really stuck out, there were some bluffs and also some pineapple plantations, a few hills, but nothing too bad. We still rode at a pretty good pace and reached the turn around point before we knew it. The first part of the ride wasn't without casualties however, a couple of the guys had bumped into eachother and taken a spill while a couple of others got some flat tires. At the turn around point most of the bikers who had left earlier in the morning were still there, but 

to my surprise most of them were loading up their bikes in the back of trucks and getting lifts back, it seemed that we were almost the only group that was doing the whole ride. After a about an hour's rest, some elbowing, joking, laughing and food we started the ride back, this time everyone at a pace that was more Leah's and my speed. It was on this return ride that we really were able to bond with the guys from the team and observe just how much they look out for their teammates. Craig was starting to cramp as well as suffer some effects of heat-stroke and fatigue due to the long distance and hotter than Louisianna hotsauce weather. He didn't feel much like eating or resting, two of the things he really needed to do, but the team took pains to encourage him to do so. When one of the guys got a flat tire we would all wait for him to patch it, and patch it again after his patch didn't work the first time. Leah and I were also really impressed with how strong every single one of the riders were. They weren't really accustomed to doing long distance as most of their races (mountain bike and road) are much shorter than 100 miles, but they all finished the ride like champions.

One of the guys really impressed me when his partner on their tandem mountain bike had to throw in the towel and catch a ride back on a truck. He pedaled the tandem solo the rest of the way, maybe 30 miles. When we got back to David, we went back to our  hotel to shower and change while they went back to load up their bikes and get ready for their drive back to Volcan. Before they left, we met them outside of the hotel for one last goodbye and photo session. Craig told us how impressed they all were with Leah and how tough she was, keeping up with all of them (I was proud of her too). As we waved off our new friends with their bikes in the back of Craig's truck, the cab full, along with a couple of the guys lying in the back to hide from the cops and a car following with the trunk sagging due to the 7 guys in there we decided that we had just spent the day with the "Cool Runnings" team of biking in Panama. They didn't have the most sophisticated bikes or wealthy sponsors, but they sure were spirited and talented riders out to have fun. That was our last bike ride in Central America and although we may not have seen the most beautiful scenery it certainly was one of the most enjoyable and memorable.

The next morning with surprisingly unstiff legs we left our bikes and most of our clutter in the hotel storage room and caught a bus to Panama City. We arrived around lunch time and wandered around the empty streets wondering where everyone was and why almost no businesses were open. We were getting kind of hungry but not being able to find any restaurants we stopped into a fancy hotel to get some directions. There they informed us that it was a national holiday (explaining the absence of people in the city) and pointed us in the direction of somewhere to eat as well as a youth hostel.

We checked into a hostel in the Cangrejo district of the city. This was our first time staying in a hostel on this trip. There we realized how much we took for granted the privacy and inexpensiveness of accomodations prior. The youth hostel did have its pluses, however. We met plenty of travelers from all over the world that all had their two cents on different places they had been, not just in Panama but the rest of the world. The most interesting person we met was Clara, a Japanese girl who had sailed with two other Japanese men from Vancouver, Canada. They were on their way through the Panama canal and up to New York where she would disembark and head back to Japan and her captain and co-captain would continue their journey around the world. She told us some great stories from her experience on the boat and shared her pictures with us. She also told us that for her captain, this trip has been his life-long dream and that one of his objectives for the trip is to share it with young people to broaden their horizons. She explained that he is always looking for others to join him for sections. Leah and I both looked at each other with the exact same expression in our faces, "Hmmmmm...that's something we'll have to think about." 

 Neither of us had much desire to spend a lot of time in Panama city as we aren't really city folks. We had our goal of seeing the Panama canal (a must see in Panama), Casco Viejo (the oldest part of the city) as well

as just wandering the streets experiencing the hustle bustle against the backdrop of the most western city in Central

 America. The skyline of Panama city definitely surprised me with is numerous existing skyscrapers as well as sky scrapers under construction. Part of the reason that the skyline is so impressive, however, is that it is spread out, there isn't really a central downtown area, therefore the buildings are kind of stretched out over a large area.  If you look out into the bay off in the distance you see all the ships anchored, awaiting their turn to enter the locks, traverse the 80 kms across Panama and descend the locks on the East side and enter the Atlantic Ocean.  

First thing in the moring

 we caught a diablo rojo to the bus station. Diablo rojo (red devil) is what they call the buses in Panama City. Most of them are custom painted and decked out old school buses (think "Pimp My Ride", the TV show) the drivers drive like bats out of hell, but they can take you anywhere in the city for only a cuara (pronounced cwada - thats Panamanian for quarter (they use the American currency)). The visitor center is located at the Miraflores Locks and we arrived just in time to see the last ship go through. Although watching the ship enter the locks and rise isn't very exciting, for me, an engineer, it is neat to think about all the action, physics, and thought that made it happen. The visitor center was full of all kinds of 

great information on the history of the canal, the mechanics of the canal, the international role of the canal, the environmental impact of the canal and future of the canal. I read every single information plaque in there and really enjoyed it. After the visiting the canal, we walked around Casco Viejo, where some of the oldest buildings in the city are located. It is full of Spanish colonial and French architecture much of which has been restored or at least partly restored. The bulkhead (out on the point) is the original seawall built to protect the city from pirates, namely Captain Morgan (no joke). It had a neat feeling walking the narrow cobble stone streets but it was also a little strange to know that only a few blocks away was the poorest and most dangerous part of Panama City, which we had driven through in a cab. People told us it was so dangerous there that the only people who go there or even take a bus through there are the people that live there. We walked back to the hostel through the city and it was much more lively then the ghost town it had been the day before. All the shops were open, the streets were full of loud, honking traffic, diablos rojos cruised the streets, and the markets were full of people and goods. 

By the time we reached the hostel a couple hours later, we were ready to rest our senses as well as leave the city the next morning and head somewhere a little quieter. The next place we headed was El Valle, a town set in the crater of a dormant volcano. Years ago, the volcano exploded with such force that it blew its enitre top off creating a crater. It eventually filled with water, but later the water eroded a canyon in the crater wall and the lake drained. The indigenous people were the first to move in and take advantage of the fertile soil on the valley floor. A road was built into the crater not so long ago and rich Panamanians and gringos started buying up the land and building second homes up there (BIG ones). It certainly was a beautiful area but we decided that we were more interested in meeting up with Marta and Alex Pinzon of Penonome whom we had met in Pedasi. After contacting them and making sure they actually had time to at least meet us for lunch or something, we left El Valle for Penonome.

We arrived in Penonome called Marta to let her know we were in town. We were about to get a hotel, but to our surprise she insisted on picking us up and taking us back to her house. She showed us excellent and totally unexpected hospitality by putting us up in her son Alex's room for the next two nights. Marta took us around Penonome and showed us the sights, the old part of the city, the monument that designated the geographical heart of Penonome and the suburbs. She was a great conversationalist and very gracious in her Spanish, speaking slowly and clearly for us as well as using simple vocabulary, making us feel quite confident to converse with her in Spanish. We spent the next day with Peter (the exchange student

from Maryland) and Alexander (a local friend), at the beach not too far from Penonome. We tossed the frisbee around, swam in the bathwater temperature Pacific Ocean,  told stories, passed the time with idle chitchat and watched the sunset. It was a really great day and nice to hang out with Peter and Alexander. The next morning it was time to go back to David so we said our goodbyes to Peter, Marta and Alex. Leah and I both hope that someday we are able to see the Pinzon family again, whether it be in the US or in Panama, they are great people and we consider ourselves very lucky to have met them. 

 We arrived in David and spent the rest of the day getting our bikes and all our stuff together and ready to

head back to Costa Rica (it actually didn't take much time and we just wandered around David taking in our last bit of Panama). In the morning we caught the direct bus from David to San Jose. We were a little worried at the border when we saw them opening everyone's luggage because our bags are a pain to open and close but when the agents saw our bags and we told them we were bike tourists they just waved us through, pretty convenient. The bus went up and over Cerro de la Muerte (Hill of the dead) which was about 2-3 hours of curvy, steep two lane road that took us into the clouds and mist.  Our last two days were spent catching up with Enrique, watching the inauguration (Go Obama!), and boxing up the bikes.  It was a bittersweet occasion to leave Central America.

Throughout our time here we experienced unimaginable hospitality, beauty, nature, and bliss, but also experienced the realities of poverty, greed, pollution, and survival.  We leave with grateful hearts to the people we've met and for the priviledges we have and now appreciate.  This experience has changed us in ways that we are unable to articulate (or even understand) at this point, but it will become evident in the future as we develop as people.

Panama Part 2: The Azuero Peninsula

After the Los Quetzales hike, we set off on leg #2 of our Panama journey- cycling the Azuero Peninsula. We decided shortly after entering Panama that we wouldn't ride to Panama City because the only route there would require hundreds of kilometers of riding on the highway. So, we'd do sections of riding and sections of backpacking/ bus riding to get to the city. We set off from Paso Ancho all loaded up, waving goodbye to Craig and Dana, headed for David (the second biggest city in Panama) where we caught a bus with our bikes to the Azuero Peninsula. The ride to David was about 65 km and down, down, downhill. We pedaled for maybe 3 km max. Although the ride wasn't physically challenging, we didn't survive it without any pain. 

Just 4 km or so from David, Leah ate it hard. We had just started riding on the shoulder (vs riding in the far right lane) because traffic was increasing going into David, but the shoulder wasn't all paved...as it appeared. I was coasting down a little hill at a good clip when all of a sudden, the pavement ended and turned to relatively deep sand (the same color as the pavement, making it hard to see the pavement ended). I was able to control my bike from skidding out, but as soon as I got through it, I turned around to warn Leah, as I knew she'd have trouble. It was too late. As I whipped my head around, I caught the last glimpse of her losing control and then splat...a mishmash of bike, panniers, and Leah (thankfully whole) was on the ground. She survived with a bit of road-rash and bruising to her right thigh and some cuts on her right elbow. She suffered the usual post traumatic shakes and slight nausea but was able to get up and get moving soon. And once again, we were graced with typical Panamanian generosity as two separate cars pulled over to make sure Leah was okay and offer assistance in the short time we waited on the side of the road for Leah to gain her bearings. We pulled over in David for Leah to wash clean and dress her wounds. I tried to help her but being the nurse she is she insisted on doing most of the work while I helped as much as allowed and documented the action on camera.

We rolled into the bus station, found a bus headed in the direction we were going, loaded up our stuff and arrived in Divisa (the town at the junction to the road into the Azuero peninsula) a few hours later. It was nearing dark by the time we started riding, so at the first 

house that looked promising we tried our luck in asking for a place to stay. The owner of the house was a man named Lambert Baxter who's father was Jamaican and mother was English and they had come to work on the canal. 

Through our time in Panama it became apparent that this sort of mixed and unusual background is quite common among the Panamanian people. 

For such a small country it really has a varied population due to the canal. The next day we topped our previous distance record with a 115 km ride to Pedasi. The road was a little narrow, but the traffic wasn't too bad and we made it in decent time even with our stops to gorge on some tasty watermelon and scrumptious fried fish. Near the end of the day though, I definitely lost my appetite when we passed a slaughterhouse and the aromas of burning and rotting cow flesh filled my nose. I tried holding my breath as we passed but that's a bit difficult to do while trying to bike.

One of the main attractions around Pedasi (at the tip of the peninsula) is Iguana Island, about 30 minutes by small boat from the mainland. Luckily, two other couples at our hotel had found a fisherman to take them out the next day and we were able to tag along and split the cost. As we approached the island, we noticed the air above was dotted with specks. Finally the specks took shape and they turned out to be hundreds of frigate birds soaring above the island. We had a relaxing day watching the birds, snorkeling, wandering the short trails, playing with hermit crabs and looking at iguanas.

The next day after we had packed up and were about to head out, a Panamanian couple, Alex & Marta Pinzon, stopped to talk to us. They were vacationing in Pedasi as well and lived in Penonome, a few hours drive away.  They introduced us to their two sons, Chicho (biological son) and Peter, an exchange student from Maryland. Peter is a biker himself and told us that he had actually seen us a couple days before riding through another town on our way to Pedasi.  His account of seeing us went something like this, "We were at the town square when I saw this crazy looking guy with all this hair and sunglasses riding down the street. I wanted to talk to you both and tried to yell to you but you didn't hear me." 

After chatting for a short while, Marta and Alex gave us their contact information and told us to get a hold of them if we ever were coming through Penonome (which we did later in the trip).

Shortly after leaving Pedasi, we got caught in a torrential downpour. It started with some sprinkles, but as it got heavier, instinctively, our shoulders started to hunch up and our heads tilt down as if it would keep us dry. Finally, it was coming down with such force that not a square inch on our bodies was dry. Almost simultaneously, Leah and I both came to the revelation that, hey, hunching up and cringing isn't doing us any good, we're already soaked to the bone, we aren't cold, and actually, this is really fun. We both threw our faces skyward, relaxed our shoulders and started laughing, whooping and hollering. All the people we passed who were of course taking cover under a roof must have though we were two loco gringos.

That night we stopped in Guera (a very little town north of Tonosi) to camp for the night. We introduced ourselves to a farmer to ask if we could camp in his yard and all got a laugh when Leah introduced herself and he then he introduced himself.  His name was Elia :). He thought we'd have more space to camp at his brother's house across the street so he took us over and 

introduced us to Rigo who was happy to let us stay. We met Rigo's wife and two daughters spent the rest of the evening chatting away, testing each other's Spanish and English skills, and learning about the surrounding area.

Rigo and Elia were dairy farmers (like pretty much all of the people in the area) and every morning, the two of them, Elia's son, and another man milk 60 cows by hand (this explained their killer handshakes when we introduced ourselves). The next morning, the girls took us down to the corral where they were hard at work and already almost done by 7:30. Their method - simple yet ingenious. They would tie up the cow's calf so the cow would move, tie the cows feet up so it couldn't kick, sit down on their one legged, hands free stool that hung from their belt and milk the cow, about 10-12 minutes for each cow.

 They would then pour the frothy milk through a strainer into stainless steel milk jugs (like the ones from way back in the day). When all the cows had been milked they would let them out to graze (that's right, grass fed beef in these parts), load the milk jugs onto their horses and take them out to the road (after taking a little for themselves). There are two dairy companies that come around and take the milk back to be processed. 

Consequently as you ride down the road in these parts there are always stainless steel milk jugs in front of almost every house, it is almost like stepping back in time. Rigo and his wife shared some tortillas and orange juice before we departed. It was our first time tasting Panamanian tortillas and boy were they delicious.  They are unlike any other country's tortillas thus far- thick, small, made with fresh corn and flour and deep fried.  Like a little fried corn cake...mmmmmm. 

The day's ride consisted of some rolling hills and eventually a gradual descent into Chitre where we spent the next couple nights. Chitre is a small city but the downtown is bustling with activity. Leah and I stopped at the Herrera museum (Chitre is the capital of the Herrera province). As we wandered around, Victor, the museum guide tagged along and explained the exhibits, asked us about life in the US and talked to us about life in Panama. 

Later, he excused himself for a moment and came back with a Panama flag as a gift for Leah and I. We expressed some interest in buying some local art and he told us the best place for that was La Arena, a town only 5 minutes away on bus. He insisted on taking us to the bus stop, waiting for the bus with us and then asking the driver to tell us wehre to get off. The amiability of the people we have met while traveling down here never ceases to amaze us. 

Probably my favorite thing that we did during our two nights in Chitre was going to the corner 

where there was a bakery and batido (milkshake) shop next to each other. We went after almost every meal. The bakery had amazing cakes but specialized in these buttery, braided biscuit ringlets about three inches in diameter. They baked them fresh all day long. This caused the street in front of the bakery to be filled with an alluring aroma which I had actually smelled when we passed by on our bikes while looking for a hotel. The batido shop had every kind of fruit available and therefore every kind of batido imaginable. There were so many options I never could bear to have the same one twice. 

It came time to leave Chitre and head back to David. We made plans to participate in a paseo, a 100 mile bike ride from David to Las Lajas and back along the Pan-American highway, with Craig, our Paso Ancho host and his cycling team, The Mountain Kings. It was easy to find a bus to take us to Divisa no problem, but getting from Divisa to David on a Saturday proved to be a little more difficult (and even MORE difficult with bikes). Every bus going in that direction was full and didn't even stop at the bus stop. I decided to take matters into my own hands and solve the problem creatively. There was a police check point about 100 yards away from the bus stop so I walked over to ask drivers (with room in the beds of their trucks) if they were headed in our direction. I of course asked the cops if it was okay, they said 

no problem, but we would have more luck if Leah came over there and did the asking (not to mention they would benefit from her presence as well). The checkpoint seemed like it was just a way to kill time for the cops as all they would do is take the license of the driver, sometimes look at it, maybe crack a joke to the driver, and send them off. The cop also told me that he was trying to sell his father's car which happened to be parked conveniently next to the check point where everyone could take a look at it. I eventually found a truck that took us to the main bus stop in Santiago where it would be much easier to find a bus going to David. We loaded up our bikes, said thanks to the cops and took off with the wind in our hair in the back of the truck. After asking every truck and bus that pulled into the bus station in Santiago (for three hours nonetheless) we finally found a bus that had room for our bikes, bags and us and we made it to David in the early evening, the day before the paseo.  An early morning and LONG day of riding awaited us.

Following the Talamanca Mountains from Costa Rica to Panama

After one week off our bikes on the Osa Peninsula, we were excited to get riding again. Once we arrived back in Palmar Norte, we walked all over town looking for a thank you/ Christmas gift for Alcides and asking people what would be an appropriate gift. To our surprise, multiple people suggested an lamp (like a bedside lamp) or knick-knacky house decoration. We couldn't picture Alcides, a tall, husky, tough man, appreciating such a gift, so we settled on a pocketknife with a cool leather holder.

When we arrived at Alcides´s shop, he wasn´t there so one of the policemen in front called him for us. He arrived with his son, both on bicycles, all smiles, and both donning the standard working man´s look of tall rubber boots, leather skin, and dirt and grime all over. He opened his shop for us and of course everything was there untouched. We chatted about our Christmas celebrations and our time on the Osa Peninsula while we packed up, and shortly after we gave him his gift, expressed our thanks, and said our goodbyes followed by a stiff handshake.

After packing our bikes back up, we headed through town to the highway to hitch a ride 40km 

up the road. (You´d think we would ride them after packing them up :) ). Earlier, we decided to 

take an alternate route toward Panama which would enable us to avoid a significant amount of riding on a particularly dangerous section of the Pan American highway (due to road conditions and traffic). However, the alternate route still entailed about 40km of highway 

riding which I was not comfortable doing. So, we spent about 45 minutes on the side of the highway flagging down pickup trucks with empty beds asking if they could give us a ride up the road to Paso Real. Eventually, a father and son heading back to San Jose after a Christmas celebration at the beach picked us and our bikes up. The father explained that his son was a champion motocross rider in Costa Rica (which is why they had the pickup, to haul his bike) and that he would be competing in the US this year. We wished him good luck, offered some money for the ride (which was declined), and parted ways not 30 minutes later in Paso Real.

It was already late afternoon when we got to Paso Real, but we knew we had some climbing 

ahead of us and wanted to get a head start on the next day, so we rode just a little further to a little town called Las Vueltas. In Las Vueltas, we camped at the house of Juan Carlos, the local schoolteacher. We had already begun climbing into the Talamanca mountains, and from 

his porch we could see down into a valley below and up the other side. In the daytime, we couldn´t see any houses or towns around, just some cleared land and a radio tower here and there, but at night the view was much different. There were clumps of lights all through 

the valley denoting little towns that were previously invisible. Juan Carlos named each of the little towns for us while we ate dinner on his porch. Now we know why the roads are so bad in Costa Rica, it seems all the tax money goes to providing electricity and clean water to the small towns (not that I´m at all complaining).

From Las Vueltas, we rode half a day to San Vito, a town founded in the 1950s by some Italian immigrants. The ride included some steep hills, but the countryside was green, sky was blue, and people were friendly, so it was another great day to be riding in Costa Rica. We were seriously in need of a laundromat and grocery store, so we spent the day stocking up on food and getting some laundry done while enjoying the mountain scenery. You´d think there would still be a strong Italian influence in such a town, but it really didn´t feel much different from other Costa Rican mountain towns. The only place where we noticed the town's Italian heritage was in the cemetary where more than half of the tombstones had very Italian last names on them. We celebrated our last day in Costa Rica with some coffee and delicious treats from Panaderia Flor down the street.

It took us only an hour and a half to ride from San Vito to the Panama border at Rio Sereno. 

It is a little used border crossing which made for a very relaxed crossing. It´s apparent that illegal immigration of Panameños or Costariccense to either side is not a concern for either government, as we easily could have gone across without anyone noticing (and it seemed many peoplewere). We actually crossed into Panama and then had to go back down the street to Costa Rica to get exit stamps in our passports. Although the vibe was very mellow, it was not without a bit of typical Central American hassle. On the Panama side, we had to go past the immigration station into town to pay our entry fee at the bank (which took an hour waiting in line), then go to the supermarket to make a copy of our recipt (but we had to search for the right supermarket, which ended up being back on the Costa Rica side), and then finally go back to the immigration station to present our documents and get stamps. In fact, David didn´t even have to go in to show his documents, I went in with both of our passports and got them stamped for us both. Made getting that kilo of cocaine across the border pretty easy...just joking :).

The steep rolling hills continued in Panama, but the grassy hillsides soon turned to coffee land to as far as the eye could see (sort of). We passed two apparent huge coffee producers, Cafe Duran and Cafe Balboa, with big processing sheds and plantation housing for the workers. By late afternoon, I was spent and so we pulled over at the entrance to "Finca Selva Negra" where there was a wooden shack with some nice shade. After relaxing for awhile in our new travel hammock which Stephanie and Olivier gifted to us (the French couple we spent Christmas with), the coffee pickers started to show up at the shack to get ready to weigh the day's pickings. We got to talking to one of them named Roberto. He was of indigenous heritage, the Ngobe Bugle tribe, as were all of the other workers there. He said they come to the area for 4-5 months every year from their homes in the Comarca Ngobe Bugle (an autonomous province of Panama) and then go back when the coffee picking is done. To get to his town he said he has to go two hours by bus and then walk another 5 hours. Soon after, the boss pulled up in the truck with all of the day's coffee and they began to measure it in a seemingly inefficient way (only to us though). Each worker would pour his coffee into large cans and they 

would count how many cans they picked. When they were done measuring, we got to talking to the boss, Roberto (a different person, same name). He said that each worker picks about 5-7 cans per day and each can weighs about 30 lbs. For each can they get $2 (the US dollar is the official currency of Panama). So, they make about $10-14 per day and get roughly 7 cents per pound picked. Wow. Roberto (the boss) says that that is a bit more than other coffee growers pay and Roberto (the picker) spoke very highly of his boss saying that he treated them very well. Instinctively, it´s easy to pass judgment on the boss for paying essentially slave wages, but his farm is small by Panamanian standards (about 60 acres) and he doesn´t have the equipment to process his coffee, so he sells it to Cafe Duran (mentioned above). We didn´t have the gall to ask how much Cafe Duran pays him... Sunset had already come by the time we stopped chatting and Roberto gladly let us camp on his property for the night.

After tackling only a few hills the next day, we stopped at a scenic point to admire Volcan Baru right in front of us (the tallest mountain in Panama, about 12,000 ft). We had been there only a few minutes and Roberto, the boss, pulled over in his truck. He offered us a ride to Volcan, 15 km away, and we accepted (and in so doing changed the entire course of the rest of our trip, through lucky coincidences). He was a great tour guide and stopped at a waterfall, 

showed us the flood damage that had come through just a few weeks prior, and also named all of the rivers and sites within view for us. When we got to Volcan, Roberto wished us well and invited us to his house if we ever returned to the area.

Since we got to Volcan much earlier than expected, we spontaneously decided to take a side trip to Cerro Punta- a little town up higher on Volcan Baru that Roberto recommended. The most remarkable part of the first half of the ride was the wind whipping in our faces, slowing our pace down quite a bit. Really the first significant headwind we´ve encountered. Along the way, we came upon another cyclist, Craig, who is from North Dakota but now lives in the area. He gave us some good pointers on the route, some guidance as to a good place to camp in Cerro Punta for the night, and also an invitation to a New Years eve party the following evening. Maybe we wouldn´t be spending New Years eve dirty and cramped in our tent?... On the climb up to Cerro Punta, we passed numerous stands selling strawberries and cream and also duros. We stopped to ask what a duro was and a customer bought one for us to try, and man was it delicious. A frozen treat like a popsicle with strawberries in it and 

cream on the bottom. While we ate our lunch at a bus stop in Cerro Punta, a few of the workers from the nearby farm pulled up on a tractor to get a closer look at us. And when we moved to another spot which wasn´t so sunny, they moved too. Not so sure if they thought they were being sly, but if they did, they definitely missed the class on stealthiness. Finally, two of them came up and talked to us, Javier and Edwin. They explained that they were both cyclists and race in mountain and road races. I found it interesting that they were passionate about cycling yet live in such a small, relatively remote town. Really cool.

After setting up our tent, we took in the cool mountain air (we were at about 6600 ft.) 

and surrounding mountain and farmland vistas while we explored the outskirts of town close to La Amistad International Park (stretches into Costa Rica and Panama). As soon as the sun went down, the temperature seriously dropped and we put on our beanies and jackets to cook our macaroni and cheese on the porch of the hotel we were camped at. While we were cooking, Javier pulled up on his road bike to chat- he had just come back from a ride after work. He told us that Craig (the American cyclist we met earlier in the day) helps them out and that he and Craig are part of a team of riders all from the close surrounding towns. Javier said that he would also be doing in a group ride on the 11th of January from the city of David to Las Lajas and back and that we were invited to join. We of course jumped at the opportunity to ride with local Panameños and adjusted the rest of our cycling plans in Panama in order to do so.

The next day was New Years eve and we were feeling festive so we called Craig to confirm our invitation to the party. He was on a bike ride nearby so he met us at our camp spot and took us to his house in Paso Ancho (down the mountain a bit and closer to Volcan). Earlier in the day, David went to take a short morning ride and before he could even get started, he rolled his bike backward to get it out of its spot and completely bent and broke his rear derailer. Our first big mechanical failure. Thus, David rode to Paso Ancho on a single speed and we bought a used rear derailer from Javier the following day that he happened to have lying around. Craig and his wife, Dana, kindly invited us to stay at their house for the night and we basked in the comfort of a home, bed, kitchen, and friendly company. The New Years eve party was at Fernando and Claudette´s house, Craig and Dana´s friends that live down the street. We arrived at 8 and spent the next 5 hours chatting with some very interesting and kind folks from all over the place who now live in the area. The assortment included a Columbian businessman, jolly Dutchman, American canal-zoners, birders galore, Obama fans, and retirees exploring their life's passions. Also included were Angel and Carla Rodriguez, two ex-Seattleites who used to own R&E Cycles over in the U-District. Angel is actually the "R" in R&E Cycles and is the founder of Rodriguez Cycles (custom cycles sold at R&E). Small world. Our olfactory glands and taste buds were reinvigorated as we dined on an elaborate meal accompanied by delicious wine and midnight champagne. No PB and J tonight :). The night ended with a bit of dancing and lots of gratitude for a great time. Just the morning prior, I was mourning the fact that we were going to have an uneventful New Years eve and probably be sleeping by 8. So glad I was mistaken.

We set off two days later for our next adventure on Volcan Baru, an overnight hiking trip on the Los Quetzales trail from Cerro Punta to Boquete on the other side of the mountain. We skirted around the mountain (rather than go over it) hoping to see a Quetzal (very beautiful and elusive bird) along the way. The trail was closed secondary to mudslides from the floods a few weeks prior, but we turned a blind eye to the sign and kept on as there were no rangers to shoo us away. About half way to Boquete, there was a little wooden lookout a few hundred meters from the trail that provided an amazing view of the canopy below and surrounding mountains. It became our camp spot for the night and from there were were able to experience a spectacular sunrise over the mountains in the morning. The trail wasn´t washed out too bad, but we did have to contort ourselves a bit to get through some root and rock messes and also get creative to cross a couple of rivers. Unfortunately, no Quetzales decided to grace us with their presence, but we did see quite a few other colorful and chirpy birds. When we exited the trail, there was a ranger at the other side who told us that the Quetzales are up higher on the mountain at this time of year and don´t come down until March, oh well. He was very nice and thankfully didn´t chastise us for hiking the trail illegally. We then hopped on a bus all stinky and muddy and made it back to Paso Ancho where our bikes and stuff were (at Craig and Dana´s house). That night we shared stories with Craig and Dana over a delicious meal and slept well, prepared for another leg of our bike tour to commence the following day.

Backpacking in Parque Nacional Corcovado, Costa Rica

Since before coming to Costa Rica, we had heard multiple people rave about the scenery and wildlife in Parque Nacional Corcovado, located on the Osa Peninsula in Southwest Costa Rica. Everyone said it was not to be missed and so we brought our backpacks knowing that we'd be spending time hiking in the area. As we got closer to the Osa Peninsula, we realized timing was a bit of an issue as Leah wanted to be near a phone to call her family on Christmas day (and the National Park is very isolated). So, when we arrived in Palmar Norte, the biggest town before the peninsula we toyed with the decision of stashing our bikes there and busing it down to the peninsula.

But where to stash our bikes?...We had had good experiences with the police in Costa Rica and felt like we could probably trust them so we first went to the police station to hint around and see if they'd offer to let us keep our stuff there. They sort of picked up on the hints that we wanted to leave them there, but seemed a little reluctant. However, they did go around to the back of the station and ask a local handyman, named Alcides, who had a little warehouse back there, if he'd be willing to hold our stuff. He gladly agreed and I thought he looked honest, so we began to unload our stuff. This all happened in about 3 minutes and we we hardly had time to think about anything at all as we wanted to catch the next bus to Puerto Jimenez. Leah was a bit skeptical, especially since we had known the man a total of 2 minutes, but I had faith. As we unpacked under the blazing heat of his tin-roofed bodega, we made split second decisions of what to bring and not to bring and stressed at the same time about whether we were making a wise decision. Alcides told us of his friend in the Peace Corps that he had known and another bike tourist he had met before that had funny sized wheels that he couldn't find tires for and my confidence grew. When we finished and locked everything up, I was sweatier than I had gotten on the 50km ride on the Pacific coast that morning. We told him we would see him in a week and hurried off, coincidentally, to wait 3 hours for the really late bus.

The bus was standing room only so I stood almost the entire 2.5 hours (2 of them on bad dirt road). Leah was lucky enough to have an old gentleman call her over to make sure she got his seat when he got off about an hour into the trip. As we stared out the window at the PanAm highway which we'd have to bike later to get to Panama (we'd been able to avoid it in Costa Rica up until that point), Leah and I were quite frankly a little frightened at the prospect with it's lack of shoulder, windiness, and plethora of semis and crazy bus drivers (one of which was ours). We arrived into Puerto Jimenez at 10:30 at night and all the rooms in the town were booked, holiday goers were in town. We ended up in room (me on the floor) in an unfinished guesthouse on top of someone's house that we climbed up to on a makeshift ladder that I thought I was for sure going to break through with my heavy backpack on. In the morning, we went to make reservations for our trip and gather as much information as possible about the park as we were unable to obtain practically any consistent information prior about logistics.

The only consistent information we had was to make reservations at least a couple of weeks in advance, if not a month in the busy season. We had gone through a cycle numerous times to try and make reservations as follows: phone- website- email- no response- phone- email, etc. All of this energy resulted in bad information, faulty email addresses, a great amount of exasperation, and no reservations. We found out when we went into the office that the website is old and outdated, doesn't have the right email address published, and that reservations are not taken by phone, so basically, if you aren't going through a guide you can't make reservations unless you go into the office in Puerto Jimenez. They strongly recommended a guide for the route we (or shall I say, I) wanted to take, as well as for the rest of the park, of course. We were warned about poisonous snakes, peccaries (wild pigs) that would trample you in their herds of up to fifty and eat you on the spot, crocodiles and bull sharks at the river crossings (that we would have to cross), as well as headlands that could be dangerous at high tides. The very aloof and rarely seen jaguars and mountain lions were also a threat and finally there was the element of getting lost or suffering heatstroke. Well, they sufficiently scared Leah (all they really had to do was mention snakes), but I was more determined and excited than ever. We made our reservations (well, completed the first of the three step process) and left the office to walk across town to the bank to wait an hour in line to pay for our reservations. On the way, we approached to everyone that looked like they had hiked in the park to get the scoop from them. As our information databank grew, I was more and more convinced and Leah was starting to sway as well. Getting a guide was out of the question in my book, as it would cost over $200 for one day and someone we talked to said a guide told them $800 for the route we wanted to do! After the bank (step 2 complete), we went back to the office to complete the final step and validate our reservation. In so doing, we encountered Johannes and Stina, two German tourists, who were hoping to take the same route into the park that we wanted to. We made plans with them to maybe meet up later and do the hike in together.

The commitment from Johannes and Stina to do the hike with us finally put Leah over the edge into the "yes zone". It was a go and I was excited. We camped the night at Danta Corcovado Lodge, a beautiful eco-lodge on the way to the trail where we would begin at day break the following morning. We opted to take horses and a guide for the first 14 km of the trail as it crossed the river 10-15 times and was reportedly the hardest part, trail-finding-wise. Not to mention it reduced the length of our hike from 34km to 20km making it doable in one day, as there is no designated camping area on the way and walking at night is the most dangerous part of being in the forest. I would have been stoked to camp in the middle of the forest, but I don't like breaking rules and there is certainly the scary element of the unknown.

The horse back ride ended up being worth every penny of it. The great thing about being on a horse is that you don't have to look on the ground where you are placing your feet and you can just absorb everything around you and zone out in the sounds, smells, and sights. The river that our horses followed was in a valley and we saw many kinds of birds fly overhead including the Scarlet Macaw. Rosa and Macho, our horses, did well taking us and our backpacks with few complaints. We arrived at the Los Patos station at about 9 AM, but didn't set off on the trail until 10:30 as we had to register at the station, then walk 3 km uphill to the old station where the trailhead was located, and also eat some breakfast.

The forest canopy shaded us the entire 20km from Los Patos to Sirena making the weather quite pleasant. We walked at a fast but steady pace with few breaks as we knew the sun went down around 5:30 and we had a 6-8 hour hike ahead of us. Unfortunately, because we had to walk so briskly we weren't able to stop and look for sloths or other wildlife high up in the trees. However, we did see a ton of spider monkeys and squirrel monkeys taunting us from the treetops. A couple of which got directly above us and started shaking the branches and trees as if to shower us with leaves and and fruits (successfully). We had also heard that peccaries are usually smelled before they are seen as they have a horrible stench. About three hours into our hike, we all stopped in our tracks at the same time and looked at each other with the same recognition in our eyes...peccary stench. All of our sources on peccarries said the same thing, watch out, stay away and get ready to run and climb a tree or get on something at least 4 feet high. I got out my machete and the others grabbed big sticks, and we all unclipped our backpacks and looked for the nearest good climbing tree (not many of those in a forest where the canopy is over 75 feet overhead) if the peccaries made their presence known. Lucky for us, we saw no hide nor hair of them (just a ton of tracks) and continued on slowly, sniffing along the way. Finally, three easy river crossings and 6.5 hours later we arrived at the Sirena ranger station. Leah walked the entire way in a pair of thick rubber boots (the kind that all of the local laborers wear) which eased her fear of getting bit by a snake, and at the end she didn't even have one blister.

"Camping" at Sirena was plush. We had a huge covered patio to sleep on with foam mats provided, so all we really needed was to put up our tent to act as a mosquito net. Over the next three days, we explored the trails and beach surrounding Sirena and happened upon a number of cool sites. One afternoon we went to a mudhole where a tapir was reported to frequent often. We saw the tapir resting deep in the mud and then to our surprise the tapir stood up, crawled out of the mudhole and started walking toward the beach. We followed and when we got to the beach, there was another tapir traipsing along. Tapirs are much larger than I thought and are actually about the size of a small pony with tracks the size of a small elephants. It was truly spectacular to enjoy a sunset walk in the company of two tapirs.Our regular alarm clock at 5:30, just before sunset became the T-Rex sounding call of the local howler monkeys, we never saw them however as they kept quite during the day. Squirrel monkeys and spider monkeys were also a common sight near our sleeping area. One morning after breakfast, we looked up to see a teeny tiny baby spider monkey clinging to it's mothers belly. Never seen such a tiny monkey, it looked like it could fit in the palm of my hand. At the river mouth of Rio Sirena, we immediately noticed the predators that lurked and it was no longer a mystery to us why NO ONE crosses the river, even at low tide. We had a couple of guides tell us that they wouldn't even put a toe in that river. Two large crocs basked on the shore while one patroled the inside of the river mouth and the bull shark fins patrolling the ocean and river waters where plentiful. We watched one of the crocs enter the water, but then we lost him and weren't able to see him anymore...until we began walking back along the beach. He was swimming in the ocean! Not even that close to the river mouth anymore. The croc was just cruising along in the waves parallelling the beach, looking for some dinner presumably, if we hadn't known anybetter we'd have sworn it was a log. Crocs in the ocean and sharks in the river...go figure.

We took a short hike with some of the other "campers" at Sirena to the only repotedly safe place to swim near Sirena, up the Rio Claro, and relished in the relief from the humidity and heat of the area. As a group we comprised a varied group from different parts in Canada, the US, and France. We even met another Hawaii native who graduated from high school the same year as Leah, just across the island. We enjoyed getting to know everyone and exploring the surroundings with more eager eyes than just our own. We did not however, enjoy our meals much. Our diet consisted mainly of peanut butter, honey and tortillas as we had not brought our stove in the interest of sacing weight. Johannes and Stina did however treat us to some freeze dried meals a couple of times, those were really special meals!

There were two other couples leaving Sirena to hike out to Carate the same day as us, so we arranged to all hike together: Wilfred and Holly, a father and daughter who live on the Osa Peninsula, and Stephanie and Olivier, a French couple on their honeymoon. The hike to Carate was also 20km, but this time along the beach. We left at 5:45 am to try and avoid the heat and also to ensure that we'd cross the Rio Claro at a low enough tide to avoid shark and croc bites. Along the way, we saw some coatis, scarlet macaws, an agouti and of course more playful monkeys. Thankfully, no snakes, sharks, or crocs. The beach vistas were postcard perfect and the flat 20km went by before we knew it. The last 4 km we walked barefoot on the wet sand with an occasional splash from a bigger wave. Although we did escape most of the heat by leaving early, we didn't anticipate having to wait in Carate for four hours for the collectivo to take us back to Puerto Jimenez. Carate was just a small store with expensive drinks and a few hotels. As you can imagine, we got to know our hiking companions a bit better and played some cards to pass the time. When we finally got back to Puerto Jimenez, the first thing on our minds was a hot meal and a beer, two luxuries we hadn't had in almost a week.

We hit it off with Olivier and Stephanie and ended up spending the next three nights and subsequently, Christmas with them. We shared laughs, games, stories, jokes, Christmas traditions (in France the eat fatty liver...mmm), taxi rides, food, beers, rum, Christmas dinner of fried fish and plantains and even went out dancing at the local discotech on Christmas eve (a first for all of us). It didn't really feel like Christmas to any of us but it was definitely a memorable time for all. Leah and I also had the pleasure of talking with most of our family members on Christmas day which was nice.On the 26th we got on the bus to head back to Palmar Norte to discover if our bikes were indeed still in Alcidez's bodega behind the police station and resume cycling again. We said sad goodbyes with our new close friends as we got off the bus and they continued north. There wasn't much time to mope around however as we had to get back to our bikes and pack everything up for our journey up and into the Talamanca mountains on our way to Panama!

Starting our second leg: San Jose, CR to Palmar Norte, CR

The warm, humid air hit us as soon as we stepped off the plane in San Jose, Costa Rica and brought us right back to where we left off, bringing our mental state to match our physical location. Our alter-egos began to resurface and the itch to get back on the bikes was back. But before resuming our bike tour, we took a side trip to meet up with David´s cousin Becca, who was reportedly in Parismina on the Caribbean coast where her boyfriend lives. After two days of trying to reach her to no avail, we took our chances and traveled a full day on bus and boat to Parismina. Luck was on our side and we spent three days getting to know each other a little better, catching crabs, walking on the beach, playing cards, "adventuring", and wildlife watching with Becca and her boyfriend, Jerry.

As we got all of our gear out of the "bodega" where we had stored it at Enriques house, we realized just how tough five months of rainy season can be on things. We spent an entire day cleaning mold and dust off EVERYTHING. With everything clean and shiny like new, we left San Jose and headed for the Pacific Coast with our ton of crap on our bikes. This time it REALLY felt like a ton even though we were even more conservative with what we brought with us than last time. To get out of the Central Valley where San Jose is located we had to climb the "Cerros de Escazu" (mountains of Escazu) which was a quick jump start to get our biking legs back. It took us two days to get to the coast and although it was physically tough, the mountain vistas and hospitality of the small town folk we met was amazing. People seemed to really care about us-- many made sure to tell us the safest route to take, one store owner gave us a gift of some chocolate bars before we left his town, and when David dropped one of his riding gloves while we were eating lunch at a roadside stand, all of the locals at the stand took it upon themselves to figure out who picked up the glove and one of them rode off on his bike to go find it at the house of the suspected glove-snatcher. Five minutes later, David had two gloves and we rode off with a deeper fondness for the Costa Rican people that we will never forget.

Our ride along the coast from Parrita to Dominical was HOT and dusty. We wore wet bandanas over our mouth and nose for most of the ride to try and save our lungs as best we could. Just after Parrita, we had to cross a one lane bridge which was about 50 meters long and super rickety. There was no railing for most of the bridge and horizontal metal beams made up the ground with many missing and an occasional small metal sheet thrown over a hole deemed big enough to be dangerous, but not bolted down of course. We were at the front of the line of cars with a man on a motor bike, waiting for our turn to cross the bridge and when the cars from the other direction stopped coming, the man on the motorbike went ahead and crossed...and we followed...but the cars in the opposite direction still had the right of way and started coming at us. It seemed everyone was equally afraid of the bridge as we were, so everyone went very fast over the bridge including those cars coming at us. So we were forced to squeeze by the cars on the right side. After the first truck passed me and shook the bridge with its weight, I realized that the bridge was really slippery and that stopping was not an option, as it didn´t seem wide enough to accomodate a car and the width of me standing next to my bike comfortably. When the second car passed me, I got a bit too close to the edge of the bridge for comfort (remember, no railing) and upon trying to get closer to the middle too quickly, I slipped and my bike and I were on the ground with half of my back wheel off the edge. Shaking like a leaf, I picked up my bike and pannier that had fallen off and slowly walked across the rest of the bridge as if I was walking on ice. Luckily, man at the other side of the bridge who was supposed to be directing the flow of cars stopped any more cars from coming and I was able to walk across safely. I think my fear of heights is much greater now than before, if that is even possible.

We spent two nights camping on the beach in Dominical and in Parque Nacional Marino Ballena and were graced with beautiful sunsets and also a strange marine animal phenomenon. For a few hours at daybreak in Playa Dominical, the stingrays went crazy and were jumping 2-3 feet into the air from the surface of the water. If they weren´t jumping all over the place, they were surfing the waves. Of course, I didn´t realize that they were surfing until I saw about three of them 10 feet away from me ready to snake the wave that David and I were bodysurfing. Needless to say, I almost had a heart attack until I realized what they were. From the shore, we could see sometimes six stingrays in one wave flapping their wings to gain momentum in the wave. Like a National Geographic picture, amazing. At Playa Ballena we spent the day beachcombing, swimming, and taking in the coastal sights. In the morning, we rode the hot stretch to Palmar Norte where we began preparations for our expedition to Parque Nacional Corcovado with finding a place to stash our bikes.

Back in the USA!

It has been 5 months since we were in the Guanacaste Mountains... and subsequently since our last blog. Throughout this time, our whirlwind adventure continued, but landed us back in Seattle, although a bit unexpectedly. Here's a quick summary (mostly in pictures):

After riding along the North side of Lago Arenal, we headed South into the capital city, San Jose via Fortuna and San Ramon. We encountered volcanoes, rainforest, lots of clouds and fog, a rope swing, and the inevitable long climb and descent over the cordillera into the Central Valley where San Jose is located.

In San Jose, we met back up with our friend Enrique, who was actually transferred to a position in San Jose shortly after we left him in Managua, Nicaragua. Enrique is from Costa Rica and his family lives in Santa Ana, just outside of San Jose. We spent the next two weeks with the Castegnaros, bumming around Santa Ana and San Jose.

Then we hopped on a plane back to the States! So, how did this big change in plans occur? A couple of months prior while we were in Managua, we found out about a few events scheduled back in the States that we wanted to be there for: 1) David's cousin Dallas's wedding, 2) David's childhood friend Rhett's wedding, 3) The Gibbs family reunion, and 4) The opportunity to see my parents who would be in the continental US around the same time. After contemplating the cost of the ticket (which didn't take too long thanks to a Frontier Airlines special), we bought two tickets back to Salt Lake City for one month. Well, one month turned into almost five and we visited not only Utah, but also Colorado, California, Washington, and Oregon to see family and friends.  We were obviously excited to see family, but also craving a bit of familiarity and regularity. Sleeping in a bed and showering daily, communicating with others without getting a headache, and eating home cooked meals were all things we really wanted to enjoy for a bit.

We entered the states in July and have had a cram packed 5 months while we have been here, Here is a short description and photos of some of our events:

We went to Volcan Turrialba with our local guide Enrique

The Gibbs family reunion, with the water fight as one of the highlights

A family reunion of sorts in California with Leah's dad's side


A family reunion of sorts in Vail, Colorado with my mom and Leah's aunt & sister

Some kick ass times with our biker gang in Salt lake City
Hanging out with Uncle Dave & family on Orcas Island

Sweet bike ride to wineries and brewery followed by a drunken ride home and skinny dipping in chilly Lake Washington

A couple of backpacking trips - one to Mount Rainier National Park and one to Goldmyer hotsprings

Moving in with some awesome roommates to a house in awesome Greenwood

Hiking Kendall Catwalk in the Cascades

Climbing and camping in Vantage, Washington

Panhandling at freeway offramps and getting picked up by the police (and donating my proceeds ~$26)

Volunteering with Bikes For Ghana

Hiking to Mason Lake in the snow and going for a dip

Attending my cousin's most memorable Halloween dress-up wedding in Connecticut

Going to Washington, DC for my first time and being there for the most memorable election ever, not to mention hanging out with Jamie & Ryan

Canoeing on the Potomac River at Hard Bargain Farm with three aweome co-pilots (you can't see Ralph the dog)

Relief caretaking at Goldmyer Hotsprings and getting the full-time job of caretaking in the spring (April - July)

A most memorable visit with my good friend Steevasaurus in San Fran

An unbeleivable family reunion with my mom's side of the family - 34 of us total - all but one cousin, OUTSTANDING! (Here is Sarah after going over the handlebars on a bike ride - The other two sisters taking good care of her)

Hanging with the family

The standard ultimate frisbee game on Thanksgiving day

Sweet family biker gang

We are now going back Costa Rica to meet up with Blackie and Pete, our trusty steeds. We are really excited to meet up with Enrique again too. We plan to bike around some in Costa Rica along with doing some backpacking . We are also planning to go to Panama, but, if you know anything about us plans tend to go to the wayside pretty regularly. We will be flying back to LA on January 21 and will proceed to bike up the west coast to Seattle. We plan to arrive in Seattle in mid-March to prepare for our upcoming caretaking stint at Goldmyer Hotsprings. Our caretaking stint goes from April 1 to the end of July or August.  It is something we are very excited about, but it is still in the distant future. We plan to keep up the blog on our travels so we hope you enjoy!