Our first destination after Managua was Isla de Ometepe, an island in Lake Nicaragua. We woke our leg muscles back up on the 45 km ride to Granada where we caught a boat to Altagracia- one of the biggest towns on Ometepe. In our one week on Ometepe, we circimnavigated the island (all 100 km that is) and even climbed a volcano.
From Altagracia, we rode down to a small town named Merida. From Merida there is a trail to climb to the top of Volcan Maderas (one of the two volcanoes that comprise Ometepe. It´s inactive, but the other, Concepcion, is still active).
While taking a break in Merida at a comedor, we encountered another bike tourist, Sam. Sam has lived in Costa Rica since he was 8, but his Dad is American and Mom is Swiss. He just graduated from high school and was taking one week to tour Ometepe. He´s also hoping to ride from Costa Rica to the States in the future, so we chatted for a bit about our experience so far. Later, we also decided to climb Volcan Maderas together the following day. We found ourselves a guide through the hostel we were staying at (guides are required) and set out at 7 am the next morning, hoping for a cloudless view from the top. The hike was classified as a "very strenuous 8 hour hike," but we thought, "Ah, they always exaggerate so people are over prepared, it´s probably not that bad." Holy cow were we wrong. The hike took ALL of our energy and 8.5 hours. We climbed from about 150 feet above sea level to about 46oo feet in roughly 4 miles or so (guessing) and the worst part was that there wasn´t really a trail in some spots. We were using our arms and legs to scramble up some rocks and tree roots and praying that we wouldn´t lose our footing in some very slippery and steep mud. 
The scenery made up for it though. We passed through coffee land, then into the forest, and later rainforest near the top. The views were incredible of the lake and other parts of the island. But unfortunately, when we got to the top the clouds rolled in and we didn´t get the spectacular view we had hoped for. David and Sam continued on a bit further to a laguna in the crater up top, but I stayed at the top as my legs seriously needed a break. (This actually wasn´t the best idea as I froze my butt off in my sweat drenched clothes with the wind whipping. I ended up sitting in a puddle of mud, scrunched up in a ball, behind a small tree for protection. Not my favorite moment). On the way down, we saw more howler monkeys and also capuchin monkeys for the first time (little white and black monkeys, like the ones in Africa that carry Ebola). Prior to this trip, I didn´t realize how populous monkeys are down here, a nice surprise (considering they don´t have Ebola of course). After a very large dinner that night, we slept like logs and woke up practically paraplegic. I guess that´s one way to jump start getting back in biking shape.From Merida, we said our goodbyes to Sam and rode around the bottom part of the island, skirting the base of Maderas and enjoying the views of each of its sides. As we rode, we noticed lots of campesinos (farmers) and coffee, plantain, rice, and corn fields. It seems farming and tourism really are the only industries on the island. We also noticed that they were installing more poles to bring electricity to the most rural part of the island where we were. Everyone on the island was VERY friendly and laid back and still excited to see and talk to tourists (the island hasn´t been overrun with tourists yet, thankfully). That night, we camped at a house full of women, literally. A mother with 10 kids, all daughters and a few grandchildren as well (although not all 10 were living there). They all had long strange biblical names, none of which I can remember (blame my heathen parents). They were very welcoming and excited to host us and we stayed up past dark talking and sharing a meal by candlelight as electricity hasn´t reached that part of the island yet. While we spoke, they explained that their house was donated to them by a German organization along with many others on the island (which explains why so many houses looked identical) and also that the electricity expansion project was also a donation. As usual, they simply stated these things nonchalantely. Still a bit unnerving at first to us Americans. But that´s how lots of things get done in Nicaragua-- the government would never fund those things and the campesino way of life is virtually subsistence living. To them, it´s perfectly normal for them to live off of donations, and who shows gratitude for what´s normal? I never showed any appreciation for many normal things in the States (which now I am SO appreciative for).
The next day, we continued on our circumnavigation and spent the afternoon at Ojo de Agua (eye of water) where we also ended up camping for the night. Ojo de Agua is a big pool of clear water from an underground spring. More relaxing was in order of course and we swam and basked in the sun. We had also hoped to go for a night swim after everyone left, but as soon as it became dark a ton of bats came out and fluttered all over the surface of the water. Dave was still brave enough to take a dip. From Ojo de Agua we finally got back onto paved road and cycled some rolling hills to Punta Jesus Maria, the westernmost point on the island with a big sandbar. We were treated to a great sunset and then an awesome view of a couple of lightning storms a ways away.
That night, we sat in an old canoe on the shore and ate our favorite packaged Casera cookies while Dave attempted time and time again to capture the lightning with his camera, which was quite comical for me. A great memory.We left Ometepe with a renewed realization of Nicaraguan hospitality, many photos to remember the amazing scenery as well, and of course sore legs. The overnight boat to San Carlos whisked us away from the Ometepe oasis and brought us back to border town Central America. Costa Rica or bust!
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